Getting there
There is no train station in Portovenere, so you will have to venture there by bus, boat or on foot. I suggest starting from La Spezia. This way, you can grab a slice of FARINATA (a Ligurian specialty) along the way, stroll along the Morin Promenade and people-watch in the Public Gardens.
Boat
By far the most fun way to get to Portovenere, it is possible to travel by boat from April 1st to November 2nd. The most common starting point is La Spezia
You can also get to Portovenere from Levanto or the Cinque Terre but it will cost you a little extra.
Bus
If you are feeling thrifty and have overcome the novelty of traveling by boat along the Ligurian coast, you can also take the 11 / P from La Spezia.
Buy a ticket at La Tabaccheria (there is one located outside the La Spezia station) as it will cost you twice as much to buy it on the bus.
The bus takes approximately 30 minutes and runs every 15-30 minutes from Monday to Sunday.
Excursion
You can also walk to Portervenere, but keep in mind that this is a nice hike. The walk from Riomaggiore to Portovenere is by far the most beautiful and should take about four hours.
Things to see:
Portovenere is a small town and it shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours to cover all the main attractions.
The Palazzata
These narrow, colorful and iconic houses that line the waterfront are one of Portovenere's most distinctive features. Although they may look like pretty beach houses, these buildings were built to defend the city from the frequent raids of the Saracens and Pisans. The houses are tall and compact, with small windows and no balconies, making it impossible to climb them. The oldest examples are found at the far end of the promontory
Church of San Pietro
The name "Portovenere" should refer to an ancient temple dedicated to the goddess Venus, which once stood in the place of the church of San Pietro. Built in the early Christian era and later remodeled in the Gothic style, this small black and white church offers spectacular views over the rest of Portovenere and the Cinque Terre coast
Byron's cave
Legend has it that this is the point from which Byron decided to start a long swim of 7.5 km to Lerici, where his muse Shelly lived.
To celebrate this occasion, the Byron Cup, or "Byron Cup", is held annually to commemorate his efforts and sees many fools come to try it for themselves.
It is also said to be the place where the poet composed the revered "Corsaro".
The plaque above the entrance says:
'This cave was Lord Byron's inspiration. The immortal poet tells us that as a reckless swimmer he challenged the waves of the sea from Portovenere to Lerici ”.
Sadly much of the cave collapsed in the twentieth century, but it still offers visitors some great views and the chance to take a truly spectacular selfie.
I Carrugi and Via Capellini
The Carrugi, small narrow streets and alleys, are a particularly distinctive feature in Liguria. Via Capellini, the oldest street in Portovenere, is a great medieval example, full of fruit shops, restaurants, bars and souvenir shops. Of course, on a sunny day, you will end up dragging many other tourists behind, all amazed at the merchandise on offer, washing the streets and cats lounging in the sun.
Church of San Lorenzo
A beautiful church built by the Genoese and dedicated to San Lorenzo, patron saint of the city. It dates back to 1130. Several works of art adorn the church, in particular the painting of the White Madonna. There is some mystery surrounding its origins, some say the painting was found preserved in a hollowed-out log washed by the sea. To celebrate the miracle, the White Madonna is carried through the streets of Portovenere on 17 August.
Doria Castle
This defensive structure was built in the 12th century and offers spectacular panoramic views over Portovenere and the rest of the Gulf of Poets. The castle takes its name from the rich and influential Genoese family who built it to protect the village and the surrounding areas. The castle played a key role in the war between Pisa and Genoa (1119-1290) and is the oldest surviving fortification in the Cinque Terre. Although it is mostly a ruin, there is a museum here, open until 6pm (€ 5 euros).
Mills
Dating back to the 16th century, these mills were used to transfer variable direction wind power to a fixed vertical rotating shaft, when the land was used for growing wheat.
The cemetery
Perched on the opposite side of the mountain, just beyond the mills, is what must be one of the most spectacular places in the world to be buried. Small, peaceful and very, very nice, it is worth a visit.
Getting there
There is no station